The Gray Whales Migration and Baja’s Natural Wonders adventure is a seven-night trip allowing visitors to travel by bus coach to the lagoons of Baja Sur, Calif., to witness one of the most incredible natural phenomena in the world.
During travel time from San Diego, tour-goers witness and learn about endemic plants inhabiting the peninsula, including the huge cardon cactus and the peculiar boojum tree. Along the way and back, they see cave paintings, taste the flavours of the food and share in the traditions of local people.
Visits to Ojo de Liebre and San Ignacio Lagoons
Each fall, gray whales travel for 5,000 miles from the Arctic Ocean, arriving in late December to these shallow warm water lagoons to court, mate, give birth and care for their young. Mothers and calves remain longest in the lagoons, until April. Tour participants board small fishing boats, or pangas, to observe these giant mammals at arm’s length, who at the same time are observing them.
Andiamo Travel, the company conducting the tours, reserves pangas two years in advance, as there are only a few boats allowed in the lagoons per day, as well as a time limit of no more than 90 minutes per outing.
The first visit to Ojo de Liebre, formerly known as Scammon's Lagoon, takes place on the fourth day of the tour while in the town of Guerrero Negro, the point of entry to the state of Baja California Sur. The group learned from marine biologists that 1500 whales were in residence, and that a small percentage of the whales, called “ friendlies,” may come up to the side of the boats, close enough to touch.
Mela Kircher of Ohio, along with guide Nysai Moreno tried slapping the water on the side of the panga, singing “Las ballenas! Vengan aqui!” The whales did not disappoint. Many members of the group were thrilled to be able to reach out and touch the friendlies approaching the boats.
Viewing Baby Whales in the Nursery of San Ignacio Lagoon
On the second day, the group visited San Ignacio Lagoon, 40 miles to the west of the charming town of San Ignacio. The travelers fearlessly endured a long bumpy ride to this lagoon on an unpaved road. This day’s meeting was every bit as astounding if not more-so than the day before, as almost every person on the pangas made direct contact with a whale.
Whale Calf Makes an Unexpected Visit
Mothers usually bring their calves to the boats to be admired, but in one case, the baby brought its mother. The two cavorted around the sides and under the boat for almost 15 minutes. Then the baby swam over to a nearby boat with several children leaning over the edge and placed the full length of its body alongside so they all could pet it. No one who witnessed this incident will ever forget it.
Comments by Road Scholar Travelers on Program Highlights of Wonders of Baja Excursion
Touching the whales was at the top of everyone’s favourites list. Kircher said it best. “I'm still trying to get my mind around what I saw and experienced. The shape, the sound, the environment-- none of it was familiar. So I look at pictures and think 'did I really see that or touch one?' It just doesn't go easily into my brain. I feel the urge to go again, to deepen whatever brain pathways have been etched from this first trip. I want to look at the whales and not think 'strange,' but to think 'sisters and brothers.'"
Marie Johnson, a docent for Torrey Pines State Reserve in San Diego, Calif., said, “What a great trip - and fantastic feeling of having been so close to our friends - the gray whales.” Friend and docent Barbara Justice added, “Hard to believe those huge creatures were so gentle when around our little boats and yet breaching and splashing when away from the boats.”
Joanna Hall of Pennsylvania wrote after the trip, “When I got home and told a friend about the whale watches, she observed that she would be scared to death to be in such small boats next to such large whales. The adult whales can be as much as 45 ft long and our pangas were 28 ft long. Yet I never heard anyone in our group express any alarm about being so close to such gigantic creatures. In fact, everyone was rather desperate for the whales to come as close to the boats as possible! What a brave group!”
Marta Hicks of North Carolina offered admiration and respect to guides Isabel Sanchez and Moreno. She was right; they always knew what questions would be asked before they were asked.
She said, “Isabel was the primary force in getting help from the Cataviña middle school boys, who worked hard to assist us on the trail up to see the cave paintings. The money they earned (from our tips) helps the entire school community and allows kids to see a glimmer of a different future. Andiamo Travel helps support the effort but the strength lies in the guides who come through with travelers.”
“Another example of Isabel's efforts was allowing us to stop at the local bakery in Ensenada to get a taste of Mexico. These touches were her design to broaden our experiences. The underlying beauty came about because of her efforts, as well as those of Nysai and our bus driver Juan. There is a "whale" of a difference, pardon the pun, of travelling as we were fortunate to do, versus traveling as a tourist,” she added.
Rick Reimer, California, said that Cataviña and San Ignacio were the most interesting towns he visited. “Cataviña’s boulder-strewn hills and valleys are a geological showcase of the tectonic history of the Baja peninsula, which our guide described very eloquently. San Ignacio is a true oasis nestled in a fractured desert valley and probably has a long history of settlement, both indigenous and European.”
Stephanie Pennello, Virginia, was also impressed by how the desert seemed to have natural sculptural settings. “The desert sky at sunset was phenomenal and presented some excellent photographic opportunities. I was also amazed by the size and variety of plant life.”
Anne Pierce of Florida agreed, adding, “It was very special to visit the woman in San Ignacio for the tortilla-making lesson … to be able to come into her home, meet her, and enjoy the tortillas. They were the best I've ever tasted!"
Kathy Lamoreaux, California, said that one reason she loves the tours is because the most interesting people go on them. “I get a chance to see what they have done with their lives.”
Rosalie Simoneau from Illinois, fearing that she would suffer from Road Scholar withdrawal symptoms, immediately registered for another program upon her return home.
The Great Gray Whale Migration and Baja’s Natural Wonders Trip Includes:
Comfortable bus transportation with learning experiences during driving time, snacks and beverages
Seven nights accommodations in 3 to 5 star hotels
Sixteen meals with one drink each. Snacks and safe drinking water throughout the program
Three whale encounters and all visits and side excursions included in the itinerary
Services of experienced leaders
Taxes and tips of included meals and hotels
Permit for foreigners to enter Mexico
Cost of program in 2011: $1544.
Note: Valid passport mandatory
The Road Scholar program for seniors, formerly known as Elderhostel, celebrates their 35th anniversary year with a name change, which the organization feels more closely embodies the heart of the learning program.
Program #12315 has concluded for the year 2011. For information and dates for 2012, contact Road Scholar toll free at (877) 426-8056 or visit the Road Scholar website.
See these excellent related articles by Suite101 writer Bob Bowers on the endemic plants of the deserts of Baja and whale watching in the lagoons of baja california
June Smith - I am the retired owner of a pioneering winery founded in the early '70s in California's Santa Cruz Mountains, with dozens of food, wine ...
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